CHARCUTERIE(S) – PAIRINGS TO DISCOVER
We asked gastronomy professionals from all walks of life (including chefs, sommeliers, and Meilleurs Ouvriers de France (France’s highest gastronomic qualification) to explain which drinks they would recommend to pair with charcuterie.
So take a seat, for an aperitif, or something more substantial, and savour the complex scent of a gin, the fine bitterness of a beer, the character of a marbled cheese or even the sweet earthy flavour of beetroot. You might be surprised! So read on, and bon appétit!
HAM
& Gin on the rocks, or Gin and Tonic.
« Gin is composed like a perfume, we are at will to balance the flavours, although juniper is always centre-stage (my gin, which is produced in Paris, is called Batch-1 and a fusion of juniper, bergamot and coriander). To accompany roast ham, it makes sense to rely on the woody structure of juniper, which is often used in charcuterie recipes too. At the same time, the gin plays on a vegetal note which acts as a counterpoint to the ham.»
Nicolas Juhlès – founder of the Distillery of Paris
DRY-CURED HAM
& Cardhu Amber Rock Scotch Whisky
« Whisky allows us to highlight the meaty structure of dry-cured ham and its fermented character, as well as its smoother, more mouth-coating and delicate nutty tone. Its intense woody note complements both elements. This Cardhu turns out to be perfect for both its gourmet and fruity aspects. »
Nicolas Juhlès – founder of the Distillerie de Paris
BACON LARDONS
In cream of endive soup & Cuvée des Jonquilles
« Lardons, which are essentially small cubes of smoked bacon, brings crunch, fat and of course flavour to the creamy endive soup, with its subtle bitter edge. I try the same approach with the beer, going for a malty body and hoppy bitterness, the traits of northern beer. I recommend Malt & Hops from a local brewery in Paris, Brasserie Saint-Germain; it is consistent, powerful, with a perfect balance between malt and hops. Or two absolute essentials: ‘L’Etoile du Nord’ (from Brasserie Iriez) or Cuvée des Jonquilles (from Brasserie au Baron), which is dry and bitter, which compensates for the bacon’s fattiness. »
Elisabeth Pierre, Zythologist (Bierissima)
BOUDIN BLANC
& Champagne
« Boudin blanc or white sausages have an intense meaty smell enhanced by peppery and spicy accents. On the palate, the granular texture is remarkable, developing a melting quality with lingering flavours. Its delicacy and yet intensity call for mature Blanc de Blancs, or younger oak-matured Champagne, fresh and fruity blended Champagne, or even supple and fruity Blanc de Noir Champagne made from Meunier. »
Geoffrey Orban – founder of Educavin
ANDOUILLETTE
& Persillé du Beaujolais cheese
« How about Andouillette, made with tripe sausage topped with Persillé du Beaujolais, on rustic bread? Enjoy this combination accompanied with a Morgon wine, from Domaine Piron. »
Etienne Boissy, cheesemaker and ‘Meilleur Ouvrier de France’ & Marlène Jamin (Charcuterie Bobosse).
DRY-CURED SAUSAGE
& Mondeuse wine from Savoie or Bugey
« If you had to choose one perfect charcuterie? For me, it would have to be Saucisson Sec! It keeps at room temperature for months and the vast array of choices available means there is bound to be a saucisson to your taste, whether it’s plain, with nuts, mushrooms, figs or cheese. But more than anything, it’s the all-round versatility that appeals to me. After a long walk, take it out of your backpack and enjoy with a Mondeuse wine from either Savoie or Bugey, with its generous character and aromas of truffle and prune. And when there’s nothing left to eat in the fridge, a few small slices with a baguette and a glass of red wine is the perfect French snack-time trio. »
Jean-François Clément, Sensory Analyst (Agro-Sens-Conseil)
STRASBOURG SAUSAGE (aka hot dogs)
& Pilsner Beer
« Accompanied by mustard, hot dogs (or ‘knacks’) are a great aperitif classic and a blast of the past for all of us from Strasbourg. You can also cook them in puff pastry. Enjoy them with a Pilsner, ideally from Perle or Perle Nature from Alsace, or even, from the other end of France, Tri Martolod from Brittany. »
Elisabeth Pierre, Zythologue (Bierissima)
MEAT PIE
& Beaujolais Cru
« To accompany pâté en croûte (aka meat in a crust or meat pie), often with complex flavours, I suggest a Beaujolais cru such as a Moulin à Vent, Julienas or Morgon, which bring finesse, sophistication and length. Ideally, try the Morgon Cuvée 3-14 from Jean Foillard or the Grand Millésime 2005 Moulin à Vent from Château des Jacques. »
Pierre Vila Palleja, Sommelier and Chef
SAUCISSE DE MONTBÉLIARD
& Smoked beer
« Enjoy Montbéliard sausage simply served with potatoes and salad, which is a typical Franche-Comté speciality which makes the sausage the star attraction! Pair this with a smoked beer, ideally a Vieux Tuyé to keep it local (Brasserie Rouget de Lille in the Jura). In the Paris region, you can find Charbonnière (Brasserie de la Goutte d´Or) or ‘Smoke On the Water’ (Brasserie du Grand Paris).
This is a classic match: these beers are based on malt smoked with beechwood, offering varying degrees of smoky aromas – from lightly toasted to even caramelised or roasted. The Beer enhances and even enriches the dish. »
Elisabeth Pierre, Zythologist (Bierissima)
HERB ROASTED HAM
& Pu-er tea from China
« Pu-er tea is a dark, or post-fermented tea, cultivated in Yunnan Province. You can find it in tea specialists. You can choose a ripe pu-er tea (called shu cha) from the current year – the equivalent of Beaujolais Nouveau. There’s no need to specify a particular year. This is an earthy tea, with abundant velvety roundness, no astringency and a slight acidity. It will really enhance the ham’s meaty notes and seasoning, and blend with its oily texture. Alternatively, try a black tea from Ceylon. Make sure it is of sufficient quality to appreciate the full-bodied, woody notes that are this tea’s signature. When from a quality plantation, you can find gourmet, fruity, stewed notes, which give richness to the pairing. In both cases, infuse the tea for 5 minutes in weakly mineralized water at 95°C (half a teaspoon of tea for a 20cl mug). Drink it hot, if possible without sugar. »
Lydia Gautier, Agricultural Engineer, Tea Consultant & Author
ROAST HAM
& Etivaz cheese
« Match the ham with Etivaz, which is a Swiss alpine cheese, or even better Etivaz à Rebibes with is the rolled version of the cheese. Simply serve on cocktail sticks or rolled in cannelloni. Even better still, use truffle-roast ham! Accompany all this with a Chasselas wine from the Kürsner Brothers. »
Etienne Boissy, cheesemaker and ‘Meilleur Ouvrier de France’ & Marlène Jamin (Charcuterie Bobosse)
SAUCISSON
& Viognier from the Rhône Valley
« For an aperitif with friends, combine saucisson, a large dry-cured sausage, with a Viognier from the Rhône Valley. This white wine is subtle and powerful at the same time, with aromas of yellow fruits, spices and white flowers. »
Jean-François Clément, Sensory Analyst (Agro-Sens-Conseil)
BOUDIN NOIR
& Pinot noir (Sancerre from Vincent Pinard)
« When you think of charcuterie, what comes to mind is the generosity, flavour and fatty richness. To complement, I would suggest red wines that are young enough so that the firmness of the tannin can build on the fat. Boudin Noir, or black pudding, has intense, complex flavours: I would pair it with a red Sancerre from Vincent Pinard. Pinot Noir has that tangy freshness that is just perfect with the spicy Espelette chilli pepper in the boudin noir from Parra, for example. »
Pierre Vila Palleja, Sommelier and Chef
Which wine to pair with French Charcuterie?
How to combine charcuterie dishes and wines from all over France?
Because the marriage of wines and charcuterie is a culinary union which goes hand in hand with our culture, it only seemed right to suggest some surprising French charcuterie and wine pairings to explore. This way, the suggestions below combine the essential charcuterie representing our heritage, with wines of character, and in so doing create unique and unforgettable partnerships!
Vins rouge |
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Saucisse sèche de Lacaune Domaine du Clos de l’Elu “Aiglerie” 2012 Anjou |
Jésus du Pays Basque Domaine du Clos de l’Elu “Aiglerie” 2012 Anjou |
Terrine de pâté de campagne breton Domaine Duseigneur “Antarés” 2007 Lirac |
Terrine à l’ancienne rôtie au four Château du Moulin à vent 2009 Moulin à vent |
Pâté de campagne à l’ancienne Domaine du Clos de l’Elu “Aiglerie” 2012 Anjou |
Saucisse de Monbéliard Domaine Duseigneur “Antarés” 2007 Lirac |
Boudins noirs traditionnels aux oignons Domaine Duseigneur “Antarés” 2007 Lirac |
Pâté en croûte saveurs noisette et citron Château du Moulin à vent 2009 Moulin à vent |
Vins blanc |
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Jambon sec supérieur Domaine Duseigneur “Le Blanc” 2011 Lirac |
Rillettes du Mans Domaine du Cassard 2013 Blaye côtes de Bordeaux |
Rillettes d’oie Domaine Duseigneur “Le Blanc” 2011 Lirac |
Moussse pur canard d’oie Domaine du Cassard 2013 Blaye côtes de Bordeaux |
Véritable knack d’Alsace Ackerland supérieure Domaine du Cassard 2013 Blaye côtes de Bordeaux |
Please enjoy wines responsibly.